THE ULTIMATE TUTTI FRUTTI JEWEL DAISY FELLOWESS COLIER HIDNOU BY CARTIER
Since the 18th century, the English Royal Collection had accumulated on of the greatest collections of Indian jewelry in Europe.
Cartier culled many ideas from India while conducting business there, a large portion of which incorporated the country’s most precious natural materials – its gemstones. Among the rare stones first acquired by Cartier in India were the naturalistically cut and engraved gemstones that resembled leaves, blossoms and berries. These uniquely shaped stones transformed into the signature Tutti Frutti bracelets and brooches produced by Cartier in the 1920s and 30s. The most striking of all these, however, is Daisy Fellowes’s Collier Hindou.
The original design of the Collier Hindou was similar to one first commissioned from Cartier in 1935 by the Maharajah of Patna. Of bib design, the necklace incorporated the Maharajah’s old-cut diamonds, carved rubies and emeralds as waving diamond stems sprouting ruby and emerald leaves that grew larger toward the base. In traditional Indian style, the necklace was fastened with strings of beads.A total of 785 gems, including 594 diamonds, were supplied by Fellowes’s recycled pieces and Cartier added to that a total of 238 diamonds and 8 rubies.The most drastic change was the removal of the Indian-style silk cords, replaced by a sweeping continuation of the stemmed leaf-and-berry motif to match the rest of the necklace. The grand foliate cluster, with two carved sapphires of 50.80 and 42.45 carats, at the necklace’s center was dramatically modified, moving the thumb-sized stones to terminate each end of the necklace at its clasp and stripping much of the remaining stones along with them.Today, the Collier Hindou is a major highlight of the many exhibitions Cartier has held since the necklace’s sale more than two decades ago. It represents the pinnacle of the Tutti Frutti style, a lavish display of the house’s most emblematic motif and a lasting symbol of the firm’s ingenuity in design, exploratory spirit and exemplary craftsmanship. Cartier’s coveted TUTTI FRUTTI JEWEL will undoubtedly continue to command jaw-dropping prices at auction for many years to come.