SPRING 2016 READY TO WEAR
Ramon Martin and Ryan Lobo have had some pretty splendid women attached to Tome’s mood board in seasons past, along with Louise Bourgeois, Sylvia Plath, and Dorothy Parker to name a few. For Spring, though, their inspiration, the pioneering Australian visual artist Fiona Hall, fell a lot nearer to home. “Ryan and I discovered her before we knew each other, when we were both in high school,” said Martin who, like his design partner, grew up Down Under. “We saw her latest project at the Venice Biennale recently, and immersed ourselves in her work all over again.” That dominant energy was mirrored in the show’s casting today: The lineup promoted unexpected faces, such as veteran ’90s models Claudia Mason and Esther de Jong.
Known themes came through in the clothes themselves: Menswear stripes, interpreted trenchcoats, and shirting are fast becoming Tome main mark. With Hall’s thought-provoking sardine can art as a starting point, the palette was kind of hushed for a Spring collection. Painterly flourishes did show up in the form of a palm frond print on a easy coat with billowing sleeves, a leitmotif that was created by an artist friend in the label’s Chelsea studio. There was an proffesional touch to the fish scale lace panels of one blush pink jacket too, and a white lace evening dress came flecked with crystals
In general, the voluminous silhouette remembered the energy of a particular set of late-’70s muses, and you could imagine Marie Helvin, Jerry Hall, or Pat Cleveland whirling on the dance floor of famous Parisian nightclub Le Sept in any of the messed up peasant skirts and halter tops, even if the more covered, paper-bag belted looks would be tricky for mere mortals to pull off. Still, many of the pieces—those charming asymmetrical rumpled blouses specifically—will hold their own in a modern working wardrobe that will show up in the spring.